A Curly & Coily Hair Routine with Natural Ingredients

For curly and coily hair in a humid climate, the routine that holds up is layered moisture: a water-based liquid first (aloe vera gel or a floral water), then a light oil, then a shea-based cream. Use LOC order (liquid, oil, cream) for 4a–4c and high-porosity hair, LCO (liquid, cream, oil) for 3a–3c and low-porosity hair, and refresh with flaxseed gel between wash days instead of re-oiling. Each step does one job, so you can build the routine from the single-ingredient WAAM bases stocked by DodoBeauty, or from what you already own.

How do I know my hair's porosity and curl type?

Porosity is how easily hair absorbs and holds water, and it matters more than curl pattern when choosing product order. Healthline's medically reviewed explainer describes the simplest test: drop a clean, product-free strand into a glass of water. Floats before slowly sinking: low porosity. Hovers mid-glass: medium. Sinks fast: high. Low-porosity hair takes ages to wet and to dry, and creams sit on top of it; high-porosity hair drinks water and loses it just as quickly, so it frizzes first. Curl type is the visual part: 3a–3c run from loose to tight spirals, 4a–4c from springy coils to tight zigzags.

LOC or LCO: which order for my hair?

LOC stands for liquid, oil, cream; LCO swaps the last two. Oil before cream suits hair that loses water fast (high porosity, coarser coils): the oil slows evaporation before the cream seals. Cream before oil suits fine or low-porosity hair that absorbs slowly, as Cécred's LOC guide puts it. The table pairs each order with WAAM products in stock now.

Hair and porosity Order Liquid, then oil Cream
4b–4c, high porosity LOC Gel d'Aloe Vera, then Huile de Ricin diluted 1:2 in jojoba Whipped shea, pea-sized
4a–4b, medium porosity LOC Eau Florale de Rose, then a film of Huile de Coco or d'Argan Whipped shea, half a pea
3c–4a, low porosity LCO Gel d'Aloe Vera, then a few drops of Huile de Jojoba last Gelée Boucles or a smear of whipped shea
3a–3b, low porosity LCO Eau Florale de Concombre, then 2–3 drops of Huile d'Argan last Gelée Boucles only, no butter
Any type, refresh day L + gel Rose water mist, no oil Gel de Lin, no cream

What is the "liquid" step?

The liquid is the water-based moisture everything else seals in; oil or butter on dry hair only coats it. Between washes you need a gel or a spray. WAAM Gel d'Aloe Vera (100 ml, Rs 715) is the classic: light, soothing after sun and, in WAAM's words, "a staple base in homemade recipes". Floral waters are the mist option: Eau Florale de Rose de Damas (200 ml, Rs 715) is the all-hair-types hydrosol, Eau Florale de Concombre (200 ml, Rs 715) the cooler finish on warm days. Work in sections, saturate rather than dampen, and add oil or cream while the section is still wet.

Which oil for curls in 80 % humidity?

The Mauritius Meteorological Services describes a warm, humid summer from November to April, with January and February averaging a daytime maximum of 29.2 °C and humidity regularly above 80 %. Split oils by job. Daily sealing, go light: Huile de Jojoba (75 ml, Rs 935), technically a liquid wax and the closest match to the scalp's own sebum, or Huile d'Argan (75 ml, Rs 985), a light finishing oil for lengths. Keep Huile de Coco (75 ml, Rs 645) for pre-shampoo treatments and Huile de Ricin (75 ml, Rs 585), thick and sticky, diluted in jojoba. A 2022 systematic review of 22 studies found coconut oil has the strongest clinical evidence of the three for brittle hair (less protein loss during washing), castor only weak evidence for shine and none for growth, argan none at all. Our hair-oiling guide covers oil baths; the full range is in the oils collection.

How do I make whipped shea butter (chantilly de karité) in five minutes?

Whipped shea is the "cream" step made at home, from two ingredients and a whisk. Start with Beurre de Karité Désodorisé (100 ml, Rs 825, from the butters collection): the same nourishing butter with the nutty smell removed.

  1. Weigh 80 g of shea into a bowl; in winter, soften it for a minute over warm water. Do not melt it fully or it will not whip.
  2. Whisk with an electric whisk for 3 minutes, until pale and fluffy.
  3. Drizzle in 20 g of Huile de Jojoba or Huile d'Argan while whisking, 2 minutes more.
  4. Spoon into a clean, dry jar; a pea-sized amount per section on wet hair.

Shelf life: with no water in the recipe it keeps for months at room temperature, lid on, out of the sun; if it melts on a hot day, cool and re-whisk. Add aloe gel or floral water and it becomes a perishable leave-in: fridge, and use within days. Prefer a scent? Beurre de Karité Yuzu (100 ml, Rs 825) is raw shea with a citrus lift. Patch-test any new mix on the inner forearm for 48 hours; ask a dermatologist first if you have a scalp condition.

Flaxseed gel or a curl gel: how do I get definition without crunch?

Both WAAM gels give soft hold; the difference is weight and how long it lasts. Gel de Lin (100 ml, Rs 715) is the brand's flaxseed gel, "a plant-based curl definer with soft hold and no crunch, ready-made so you skip boiling your own": the lighter of the two, ideal for 3a–3c curls and refresh days. Gelée Capillaire Boucles (200 ml, Rs 985), made in France, is a leave-in jelly that defines and holds "without the crunch of a hard-set gel", and lasts longer in humidity on 4a–4c coils. Technique matters more than brand: apply to soaking-wet hair, rake, scrunch upwards, and leave it alone until dry; break any light cast with a drop of argan between the palms. Both are in the curl styling collection.

What does wash day look like in the hot season?

In summer, coily hair needs washing every five to seven days, with a water rinse or quick co-wash after sport. The WAAM wash day:

  • Pre-wash: 30 minutes of Huile de Coco on the lengths.
  • Cleanse: Shampooing Boucles (230 ml, Rs 985; more in the shampoo collection), built for curls and coils, cleanses without stripping. Focus on the scalp.
  • Detangle: Baume Démêlant (200 ml, Rs 730), a rinse-out balm with enough slip to work through knots; fingers first, then a wide-tooth comb from the ends.
  • Every second wash: Masque Capillaire Embellisseur (250 ml, Rs 985), 10 minutes.
  • Style: LOC or LCO on soaking-wet hair, then gel.

At night, twist or "pineapple" the hair under a satin bonnet; cotton pulls moisture back out. For edges, a fingertip of whipped shea or Gelée Boucles smoothed with a soft brush is enough; skip tight styles.

Frequently asked questions

LOC or LCO for 4c hair?

LOC, in most cases. 4c hair is usually medium to high porosity: it loses water quickly and benefits from oil straight after the liquid, with shea cream sealing on top. If your 4c strands float in the porosity test, try LCO instead, jojoba last and a thinner layer of cream.

Does flaxseed gel make hair crunchy?

Not the way a hard-set gel does. WAAM's Gel de Lin is designed for soft hold without crunch, but any gel applied thickly leaves a light cast as it dries. Use it sparingly on soaking-wet hair, and once dry scrunch the cast out with a drop of argan.

How often should coily hair be washed in summer?

Every five to seven days suits most coily hair in the Mauritian hot season, with a water-only rinse or quick co-wash after the beach or a sweaty day. Wash more often if the scalp itches or smells, less if the lengths feel dry.

Can I use whipped shea on my face or a baby?

The water-free recipe (shea and jojoba) suits most adult skin but is rich, so keep it to dry patches, elbows and hands rather than an oily, acne-prone face. For a baby, use only the unscented Désodorisé version, patch-test for 48 hours and check with your paediatrician first.

Why does my hair frizz more in Mauritius?

Curly hair absorbs water vapour from the air, which swells the strand and lifts the cuticle, so curls expand and lose definition. With summer humidity above 80 %, high-porosity hair does this within hours. Fill the hair with water and seal it before the air can (liquid, oil, cream, gel on soaking-wet hair).

Which WAAM products are made in France?

The finished formulas (Shampooing Boucles, Baume Démêlant, Masque Capillaire Embellisseur, Gelée Capillaire Boucles) and the bases Gel d'Aloe Vera and Gel de Lin are made in France. The raw oils, butters and floral waters are natural ingredients from their countries of origin, neither made in France nor certified organic. The whole range is vegan.

The bottom line

Layer moisture in the right order for your porosity, keep daily oils light, whip your own shea cream and let a gel do the defining: that is the whole routine, and it holds up to a Mauritian summer. Browse the WAAM curl styling collection or the full WAAM range. DodoBeauty is the brand's official local distributor, delivers every day (same-day before 11:30), and DodoPrime members get 5 % off WAAM plus free standard delivery from Rs 1,999. Questions? WhatsApp +230 5510 8188.